| Lodging · booked |
| Hotel AtariCalle Mayor 18, Parte Vieja | Our stay: 2-star hotel, Double with Balcony (20 m², one 180 cm bed, A/C, heating, soundproofing), Nov. 7–12, 2026 (5 nights), room only, with a welcome glass of wine. Rated 8.8 (1,190 reviews), location 9.8. Check-in from 3:00 PM, checkout by 12:00 PM, 24-hour desk. Calle Mayor is in the pedestrian zone: a taxi can use the 15-minute loading bay on Calle Virgen del Coro, 1 min on foot from the hotel. Phone +34 843 93 44 44, info@hotel-atari.com. Small bathroom in some reviews. | booked |
| Sights · ideas |
| Playa de la Concha | 1.4 km curved bay, one of Europe's great urban beaches; flat, step-free promenade — easy morning runs both directions. | idea |
| Parte Vieja (Old Town) | The pintxos heartland — standing room, walk in, order one or two + a txakoli, move on. Stay near here. | idea |
| Monte UrgullDaily 8:00 AM – 7:30 PM (winter) · free | Hill above the old town with bay views; walkable from the Parte Vieja (uphill paths). | idea |
| Monte IgueldoFunicular 11:00 AM–8:00 PM Sat.–Sun. Nov. 7–8; 11:00 AM–6:00 PM Mon.–Fri. Nov. 9–13; 11:00 AM–7:00 PM Sat.–Sun. Nov. 14–15 (official, as of Sept. 28, 2026) | West-end viewpoint with a retro funicular + amusement park; funicular €5.50 round trip. Rides run every 15 minutes; rides/attractions closed on rainy days. | idea |
| Guggenheim BilbaoTue–Sun 10:00 AM–7:00 PM | Bilbao day trip (~1 h by ALSA bus, €13). Gehry's titanium landmark + Serra's The Matter of Time; step-free. Pipilotti Rist + Steve McQueen all window; Dan Flavin Nov. 12, 2026 – Apr. 4, 2027. Closed Mondays; Tue.–Sun. 10:00 AM–7:00 PM, €18. | idea |
| Getaria & Zarautz | Coastal day ~30 min west — fishing village + surf beach; txakoli D.O. heartland. | idea |
| Food · faves |
| Bar NéstorTue–Sat 12:30 PM–3:00 PM & 7:30 PM–10:00 PM · Google's narrower windows (12:30–3:00 PM, 7:30–10:00 PM); own Instagram backs the 12:30 PM and 7:30 PM tortillas; Salir's Sun. lunch ignored. | C+H must-do. Two tortillas a day, ~16–17 slices each (sells out); get on the list under the shutter ~10:30 AM (lunch) or ~6:30 PM (dinner). Also aged txuleta. Walk-in. Instagram reel (@broccoliraab) | fav |
| Casa VallésTue–Thu 11:30 AM–4:00 PM & 6:30 PM–10:00 PM · Fri–Sat 11:30 AM–4:30 PM & 6:30 PM–11:00 PM · Bar close from its Instagram (earlier than Google); the official site's kitchen break (Tue.–Thu. 4:00–6:30 PM, Fri.–Sat. 4:30–6:30 PM) applied; closed Sun. + Mon. | C+H must-do. Birthplace of the gilda (anchovy + guindilla + olive); order a gilda + a vermouth at the bar. Walk-in. Instagram reel (@topjaw) | fav |
| La Cuchara de San TelmoTue 7:30 PM–11:00 PM · Wed–Fri 12:30 PM–3:30 PM & 7:30 PM–11:00 PM · Sat–Sun 12:30 PM–3:30 PM · No Tue. lunch and dinner from 7:30 PM (OSM); weekend lunch only, to 3:30 PM (TripAdvisor + Google); closed Mon. | Warm pintxos cooked to order — slow-cooked carrillera (cheek), foie, ox-cheek risotto. No bar displays. Must (Chasen, Sept. 28, 2026). Walk-in only, queues can top an hour. Instagram reel (@broccoliraab) | fav |
| Bar TxepetxaTue 7:00 PM–11:00 PM · Wed–Sat 12:00 PM–3:00 PM & 7:00 PM–11:00 PM · Sun 12:00 PM–3:00 PM | The anchovy temple — eleven preparations of fresh anchovies (also a James Blick Tapas-101 pick). James Blick Tapas 101 | fav |
| Bar SportMon–Tue 9:00 AM–11:00 PM · Thu 9:00 AM–11:00 PM · Fri 9:00 AM–11:30 PM · Sat 10:00 AM–11:30 PM · Sun 11:00 AM–11:00 PM · conflicts with OSM on mon, tue, thu, fri, sat, sun | Txuleta, ham, classic — another reel repeat. James Blick San Sebastián food tour | fav |
| Bar AntonioMon–Sat 9:00 AM–11:00 PM · Fri.–Sat. close at 11:00 PM (Google) rather than 12:00 AM (official site). | Must (Chasen, Sept. 28, 2026) for the tortilla (Spanish tortilla; per the jamesdimitri Gros crawl). James Blick features its house-cured anchovies + champagne by the glass (open since 1968). This is the Bergara 3 bar (Centro); a second Antonio is on the Boulevard. Closed Sun. James Blick | fav |
| Gerald’s BarTue–Fri 1:00 PM–5:00 PM & 7:30 PM–1:00 AM · Sat 1:00 PM–5:00 PM & 7:30 PM–12:00 AM · Sun 1:00 PM–5:00 PM & 7:30 PM–1:00 AM | Must (Chasen). Steak tartare is a signature per reviews, but the menu is seasonal and the Sept. 27, 2026 carta doesn’t list it. €30 set lunch on weekdays. Bookings + walk-ins; same day call +34 943 083 001. Closed Mon. Instagram reel (@foodieholly) | fav |
| GanbaraTue–Sat 12:30 PM–3:30 PM & 7:00 PM–10:30 PM | Must (Chasen). Anthony Bourdain ate here (A Cook’s Tour, 2001; Parts Unknown S9E3, 2017). The one for wild mushrooms with raw egg yolk. Upstairs bar walk-in (queues 25–40 min at peak). Closed Sun. + Mon. Instagram reel (@madrid.explore) | fav |
| La CepaMon 11:00 AM–11:00 PM · Thu–Sun 11:00 AM–11:00 PM · Official site + Google say daily, but a guide says closed Tue. and Salir says closed Wed., so both are treated as closed. | Must (Chasen). Known for jamón (ham platters, croquetas). Came from Instagram reels (topjaw / madrid.explore), not James; the famous mushrooms are Ganbara’s. Official site says open daily; one undated directory says closed Tue. (likely stale; Google + Tripadvisor show Tue. open). Probably open Tuesdays. Instagram reel (@madrid.explore) | fav |
| KBTXIKI (by KBZÓN)Daily 12:00 PM–11:00 PM | Must (Chasen, Sept. 28, 2026). Creative pintxos: bluefin tuna with Idiazabal + ponzu, RAF tomato with Idiazabal. Try both KBZÓN bars (Chasen); the sister KBZÓN Txiki is at 31 de Agosto 26. Open daily. Instagram reel (@broccoliraab) | fav |
| KBZÓN TxikiMon–Wed 12:00 PM–11:30 PM · Thu 12:00 PM–11:00 PM · Fri–Sun 12:00 PM–11:30 PM | Must (Chasen, Sept. 28, 2026: try both KBZÓN bars). Recently moved to 31 de Agosto, per its site. Sister bar KBTXIKI is at San Lorenzo 11. Open daily. Instagram reel (@broccoliraab) | fav |
| MaunTue–Wed 1:00 PM–3:00 PM · Thu–Fri 1:00 PM–3:00 PM & 8:00 PM–10:00 PM · Lunch Tue.–Fri. 1:00–3:00 PM, dinner Thu.–Fri. only: TripAdvisor lists Sat. closed and lunch to 3:00 PM; the market listing omits Mon. | Hugo's must (Oct. 3, 2026). Grill bar inside Mercado San Martín (stall C8): txuleta, Basque cheesecake, grilled green peppers. Book for Thu.–Sat. dinner (online form or +34 722 76 17 05). Instagram reel (@broccoliraab) | fav |
| Food · ideas |
| Casa UrolaParte Vieja · closed Tue & Wed | Kitchen pintxos — order the daily specials, not the bar display (also a James Blick Tapas-101 pick). James Blick Tapas 101 | idea |
| Bodega DonostiarraMon–Thu 9:30 AM – 11:00 PM · Fri–Sat to 11:30 PM · closed Sun. | Since 1924 — Basque produce, the completo sandwich + tomatoes (also a James Blick Tapas-101 pick). James Blick Tapas 101 | idea |
| Atari GastrotekaMon 12:30 PM–11:00 PM · Wed–Thu 12:30 PM–11:00 PM · Fri–Sat 12:30 PM–2:00 AM · Sun 12:30 PM–11:00 PM | Set back from the cathedral — gildas and Iberian ham. | idea |
| Borda BerriTue 7:30 PM–10:30 PM · Wed–Fri 12:30 PM–3:15 PM & 7:30 PM–10:30 PM · Sat 12:30 PM–3:15 PM & 7:30 PM–10:00 PM | Kebabs of pig cheek, carrillera risotto; sister in style to La Cuchara. Recurs in Hugo's reels. | idea |
| GandariasDaily 11:00 AM–12:00 AM | Signature is solomillo al cabrales (pork loin in blue cheese sauce). | idea |
| KokotxaTue–Sat 1:30 PM–2:30 PM & 8:30 PM–9:30 PM | 1-Michelin in the Parte Vieja — lighter contemporary Basque, easier to book than the rural giants. Reserve online. | not booked |
| AkelarreTue–Sat 1:00 PM–2:00 PM & 8:15 PM–9:00 PM | 3-Michelin (Pedro Subijana), hilltop ocean views. Closed Sun. evening + all day Mon./Tue. in winter; seatings 1:00 PM–2:00 PM and 8:15 PM–9:00 PM; closed Dec. 14, 2026 – Feb. 19, 2027; menus €395 pp before drinks (as of Sept. 28, 2026). Hotel + spa on-site for a splurge night; book direct. | not booked |
| ElkanoTue–Thu 1:00 PM–3:15 PM · Fri–Sat 1:00 PM–3:15 PM & 8:30 PM–10:15 PM | 1-Michelin, Getaria (~30 min west) — whole turbot grilled over coals. Book direct, weeks ahead. | not booked |
| Martín BerasateguiWed 1:00 PM–2:15 PM · Thu–Sat 1:00 PM–2:15 PM & 8:30 PM–9:30 PM · Sun 1:00 PM–2:15 PM | 3-Michelin, Lasarte-Oria (12 min). Closed Mon./Tue. and Dec. 13, 2026 – Mar. 9, 2027. Oct.–Dec.: Wed./Thu./Sun. lunch, Fri./Sat. lunch + dinner (1:00 PM–2:15 PM, 8:30 PM–9:30 PM); card guarantee, 48 hours' notice or €220 pp penalty; formal dress (as of Sept. 28, 2026). Reserve direct. | not booked |
| Asador EtxebarriWed–Sun 12:30 PM–1:30 PM | Atxondo (~1 h west, needs a car day; pairs with the Guggenheim). Rolling 90-day request window opens midnight CET and books out in seconds — for our dates it opens ~mid-August. | idea |
| Mimo cooking classDaily 9:00 AM–5:00 PM | Hands-on Basque cooking in the basement of Hotel María Cristina; the pintxos class runs daily at 10:00 AM (5 h, €230 pp; as of Sept. 28, 2026). Book 3–4 weeks ahead. | idea |
| Potluck Food Tours | Chef-led pintxos walk — 7–10 pintxos + 5 drinks across 5 bars. Turns a confusing crawl into one guided night. Book on the site. | idea |
| Petritegi (cider house)Astigarraga · lunch Tue.–Sun. 1:00–3:00 PM, dinner Tue.–Sat. 8:00–9:30 PM, closed Mon. (2025–26 pages; confirm for Nov.) | Year-round cider house with the classic menu (cod omelette, cod, txuleta, cheese with quince and walnuts), ~€44.50. Whether cider is poured straight from the barrel in November is unconfirmed. Visit + meal Tue., Thu., Sat., Sun. at 12:30 PM (~€62). Bus BU12/BU13 to the Hezegunea stop, 10–19 min walk. | idea |